There’s something about the world of Italian cooking that truly captivates me; The anecdote goes something like, ask any Italian anywhere their opinion about food, the response will always be something like ‘my mother makes it better’. This probably rings true for any home cooking, but for me, it tells a lot something about the culture of food in Italy.
Like any big capital cities in the world, it’s definitely not hard to find a good Italian food in Jakarta. From the localized version ‘warung-style’ restaurants, to fancy haute cuisine Italian restaurants that are up to par with world’s finest. But have you ever had, a true home-cooked mamma style Italian cooking? The kind of cooking that makes the aforementioned Italians just can’t bear to look the other way? Hearty meals that are cooked with a whole of lot of heart using recipes that hav been passed from generations to another.
The story of Mamma Rosy started with Daniel Vigone, an Italian that has been living in Jakarta for over 10 years. Daniel, whose family has been in the restaurant business since after the World War II, has always dreamed about introducing his grandmother’s and mother’s authentic Ligure cooking to the city.
Until one day in 2013, when Daniel found a big house in Kemang Raya that he saw fit to be turned into the restaurant of his dream. Before long, the whole Vigone family emigrated to Indonesia to dedicate their lives for the restaurant; especially mamma Rosy who became the icon of the restaurant and who now you can always see busying herself in the kitchen, making everything from the handmade Pasta, the sauces, the decadent (and live-changing, at least for me) Tiramisu.
Having been re-purposed from a large house with segregated spaces, Mamma Rosy provides its guests completely different dining areas to choose from. Stepping in from the entrance, there is the semi-outdoor terrace seating area, the air-conditioned room by the kitchen which walls are adorned with floor to ceiling images of the family’s picturesque seaside home-town–like a constant reminder of where the food your eating is rooted from–another door leads to some more private rooms, and stairs lead to my favourite, the rooftop seating areas where the bar, the wood fire oven and grill station are located.
“Our food is actually very simple,” Stefania Vigone, one of Rosy’s daughter explains, “Liguria is where the mountain meets the sea, so our food is a mix of seafood and ‘mountain’ food. We have a lot of dishes which is very specific to our region, but we also have the general Italian favourites like pasta carbonara, arrabbiata, etc. so it’s a mixture of all that. But everything in the menu is our family’s recipe.” Stefani added.
One of those that’s specific to the region is the Vitello Tonnato, a typical food of the northwestern Italy that consists of finely sliced roast beef tenderloin with smooth tuna puree and dotted with capers. An interesting combination that rings true to the Ligurian ‘mountain & sea combination’ philosophy, perfect to be enjoyed with Mamma Rosy’s amazing focaccia bread (best I’ve had!).
My degustation continues with the Ravioli con Aioli, fried handmade spinach and beef ravioli with aioli. To me, the aioli steals the show here. Usually never a fan of thick & creamy condiments, I find this emulsified olive oil authentically light and pleasant.
Ravioli con Aioli
When in an Italian restaurant, you can’t skip the world’s most popular flatbread, the pizza. I opted for the wood fire oven baked ‘Karnivora’ Pizza, with smoked beef, garlic ground beef, and paprika. The toppings are as simple as I wanted it to be, and the bread perfectly chewy with the perfect thickness. Molto bene!
Woodfire oven baked ‘Karnivora’ Pizza
Next comes the other true test of great Italian cooking, the home made pasta. Stefani picked for me another signature, the truffle tagliolini, or freshly handmade tagliolini (a type of pasta shape that is traditional to Liguria) with leek, parmigiano regiono cheese, and truffle-infused oil. Let’s just say that I Mamma Rosy’s incredibly al dente pasta has changed my perception of the real home made pasta.
truffle tagliolini
I also tried their delicate yet flavourful filetto alla Ligure; oven-cooked dori fillet with white wine, capers, tomatoes, and black olives. Another one of the many Ligurean specialty you can find in the restaurant. And last but not least, who could say no to a rustic and perfectly made Tiramisu.
filetto alla Ligure
Mamma Rosy’s Tiramisu
There’s nothing better way to really understand one’s cooking, than to understand the cook’s roots and, if possible, her history. Not too often have I had the chance to get to know a restaurant as I have been given the chance to get to know Mamma Rosy–both the restaurant and the family behinds it.
For anyone that loves food and loves learning about food and the culture behind it, a place like Mamma Rosy is a perfect example of where to start. Where else in Jakarta, or anywhere really, you can eat great food where the person whose name is patented as the name of the restaurant, still cooks in the kitchen and will gladly hug you when you greeted her!
MammaRosy Restaurant
Jl. Kemang Raya 58, 12730 South Jakarta
Tel. +62 (0) 21-71791592
Email info@mammarosy.com
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Facebook: @MammaRosy
Instagram: @MammaRosy_jkt
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